How do we make aesthetic judgements about food that disgusts?
Can there be pleasure and enjoyment in knowing our food sources intimately?
“Aww yuck but thanks”:
Embracing the aesthetics of the kombucha symbiotic community of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY)
Please join in Q&A/chat in the comments below. Chat available throughout the Symposium.
Abstract In this document I am proposing a short presentation of original research on kombucha and the people who make it in a domestic setting. Kombucha is made through the fermentation of sweetened tea with a symbiotic community of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY) and this starter is passed between friends and individuals. The appearance of the kombucha SCOBY has obtained many unattractive descriptions over the years, this aesthetic judgement and active recoiling by many people on first encounter is a fascinating phenomenon. In my research many participants either described their horrified first encounters with the kombucha SCOBY or spoke with relish of the horror of their friends and family when they show them how kombucha is made. Either way, for domestic kombucha producers embracing the aesthetic of having jars of the alien looking SCOBY living in one’s kitchen or in some cases bedroom is declaring themselves part of the relatively newly emerged discourse of eco-dietetics, encompassing movements like local, organic, and slow foods. My presentation will be an exploration of this, and other themes found in my research relating to kombucha as an example of how changing dietetic discourses and the increased popularity of fermented food are shifting the aesthetic experience of food in and Australian context.
Jacqulyn Evans is a masters by research candidate in the interdisciplinary space between anthropology and microbiology at La Trobe University. She trained as a chef at William Angliss Institute and worked in the hospitality industry for seven years before completing an arts/science double degree at La Trobe. Jacqulyn’s research focuses on fermented foods, in particular kombucha, the social aspects of domestic production and starter culture sharing and investigating what impact these practices have on the microbial cultures present within the kombucha symbiotic community of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY).
Hi Jaqulyn. I'm doing my doctoral dissertation on fermented fish (with rice) called buro in Pampanga, Philippines. Here, I hardly hear people talk about this fermentation as a microbe-mediated reaction. It might interest you that they think fermentation happens among those who are gifted to make it and it doesn't happen for those with "mabulok a gamat" or stinky hands. That said, microorganisms are still notorious, maybe even aggravated by the covid 19 virus.
Like you, I wish people here would have a more balanced view of microorganisms. Your paper started making me think, how should I do this? Local food knowledge doesn't really doesn't have a concept of microorganisms. How much more of science should I introduce to a culture which needs to resuscitate more of its own epistemology?
BTW, I come from a family who fermented cane vinegar traditionally (in the Philippines). The SCOBY formed is called "bie" meaning life. For me, a beginner in the craft, the SCOBY still excites me because I know microorganisms are cooperating. I never heard any of my relatives getting excited probably because I know its science more than they do (this may make a case to teach the science too?)
Hi Jacqulyn. This is an interesting paper that can go in many directions thematically and theoretically.
I have a couple of questions:
Would you say that scoby initially is regarded as “matter out of place” or “taboo”? If so, how are these structural notions overcome?
Is there a certain moral pride/superiority felt by those who have overcome the sense of disgust over scoby I.E. “I am more moral because I am willing to overcome the disgust and do something good for the environment by brewing my own kombucha"? I ask because the non-certified farmers that were my research interlocutors felt moral pride/superiority over their choice to abandon their urban, middle-class lifestyles for farming life.
As a mother I always tolerated a certain degree of exposure to less than pristine surfaces for my children (most notably, after I found my first toddler sitting watching play school, and happily sucking the cat's tail), and believed it helped to increase their own resistance. As an empty-nester I now tolerate more exposure to less than spotless surfaces because I'm lazy. I think our society went through a phase of paranoia when it comes to bacteria, not always without good reason, causing us to compromise our own natural immunity, so I'm pleased to see the growing interest in fermentation of all kinds. A SCOBY is certainly not the most attractive thing around, but it's product is delicious. I'm quite surprised to hear of the lack of research into kombucha, but firmly believe that home fermentation and the growing consumption of living foods of all kinds is one of the healthiest responses to industrialised food production. Now, please excuse me - I'm off to finish off the brie (which comes complete with it's own symbiotic community of bacteria and yeast).
Join us on ZOOM in a QandA chat - Saturday 18th July at 10am to hear more from Jacqulyn Evans on the presentation “’Aww yuck but thanks’: Embracing the aesthetics of the kombucha symbiotic community of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY)”.
Zoom link here
We'll be giving you a schedule of all the zoom links elsewhere.
Thanks Jacqulyn. I'm one of those people whose gut does not like consuming too much fermented stuff, which is why I've resisted kombucha. I'll buy some and give it a try.
It's definitely on my research list re: clinical trials, observational studies and even basic microbiological analysis of bacterial/yeast components when brewed under different conditions. Of course my microbiologist self worries about non-sterile conditions and the possible proliferation of pathogenic bacteria and yeasts too: Aspergillus, Penicillium and Bacillus anthrax for example. It's a really interesting discussion, particularly now when we're all hiding and seeing the effects of the unseen microbiological world. Where does the very sensible fear of microbial contamination meet the belief in health benefits? How lies the balance between eco-dietetic ideology and evidence? I'll be pondering this all day no doubt :-)
Thanks Jacqulyn. I'm a kombucha lover, having come back to making it after a thirty-five year break. For me, it's the easiest fermented food to make. I'm finding it interesting that the younger generation (our children - mostly girls) who have immunity or gut issues have been steered away from fermented foods by health professionals. I would have expected advice to the contrary.
Good Evening @Jacqulyn Evans Your session is *live*.